Selvagens

It seems we had picked the right weather window for this visit. Still had a swift sail from the Desertas until around 4 in morning when the wind died down to some 6 knots from behind and we needed some help from the engine. As we usually go rather slow under engine it got late morning before we arrived at Selvagem Grande. First we found that the previously accurate electronic charts of the island now were off some 150m, something normal in remote corners of the world, but not anymore in European waters. We carry electronic charts from multiple makes and it was interesting to see that all were consistent in the error, and all charts older than mid 2009 were still perfect. Makes you wonder what happened.

It didn't really bother us and we happily anchored on shore. Anchoring in teh Selvagens is not easy, or I should better say, safely anchoring in the Selvagens isn't. The ground looks much the same as the land, flows of previously molten lava, luckily with some ledges were a sturdy anchor can hold as long as the direction of pull doesbn't change too much. Diving on the anchor confirmed that we had indeed dropped our anchor into such a groove and that this groove was orthogonal to the direction of our chain, of which we had generous 60m out. Only the reef looming two boat lengths behind us looked a bit scary. Usually the NE trade would send you out of the anchorage if your anchor dragged. This time the wind, however light, was west of north which meant we were laying across the bay.

Went ashore to talk to folks in the station, off course not without some wine from the Azores for the lone evenings at that remote station. We were made very welcome indeed, maybe because of the wine, or maybe because not many yachts had shown up this year, but most likely because they were just a nice crew: Two park wardens, two female scientists or students and Dr. Frank Zino who is the only person still allowed to live on the island in his small house, right next to the park station. His father who was researching the Cory Shearwaters had rented the land in the early sixties for 100 years, when it was still privately owned by a banker. His son, who may be about our age is still continuing the research work and spends about 3 weeks at the beginning and at the end of the breeding season on the island. 3 weeks is the choice, as this is the interval the navy supply ship comes by to bring the next shift of rangers.

We were asked to return to the station around 5 pm, when the sun was a bit lower, when Mauricio, the younger warden would take us around the island. We then got the grand tour and hiked around most of the island. A fascinating place and by far not as scarce and boring as one might expect looking at the dry place from the sea.

Pictures show:

Ranger station under the rock face, with Dr. Zino's house to the left.

A breeding Cory Shearwater

Taniwani anchored in Enseada da Cagarras, our dinghy on the ramp and the roof of the ranger station.

Southeast end of the island.

Green scrubs, which have not been there when we visited in 2003, then all had been eaten by rodents which have now been extinct.

Taniwani from the top of the world

Ranger station, also from high up.